Saturday, 3 September 2011

Do-gooders







Good things often come in threes. This was proved true when I arrived back from a few days by the coast to find an exciting looking package from Goodone waiting for me. Following twitter and email communication, I had requested to borrow three items from their AW11 line - a jumpsuit, a belt and a cable knit muff. For me this trinity of gorgeous garments brought with them three words: recycle, re-use and re-claim.
“Re”, unsurprisingly, means ‘again’. I currently need to re-charge my phone and re-organise my room. My parents need to sort out the recycling. Ah, there is a word that has been much misappropriated. As Pearl (from Fashion Pearls of Wisdom) pointed out in one of her recent posts, the term ‘recycling’ has been (ahem) 'recycled' to encompass all sorts of meanings. I agree with Pearl, in that it is definitely not the act of wearing the same dress twice – that’s called being normal.

On the other hand, the ethical company Goodone are definitely encouraging the right (and real) sort of recycling with their wonderful label. As they state on their website: “By using reclaimed fabrics in every possible part of the design process we create desirable, assertive and feminine pieces.”
I can attest to that. The jumpsuit was the first garment I decided to style, and the minute I slipped it on I felt like Katharine Hepburn. I have something of a battle with jumpsuits. I want one of my own very badly. However, I will not touch anything that looks vaguely eighties related. I want 1940s satin, not 1980s batwings! The other issue is the length. I love having long legs, but they do not lend themselves to trousers and jumpsuits. The hems usually graze the middle of my ankles, or even sidle up my shins.
So you can imagine my delight at getting to style this classy all-in-one. The fabric is soft and cosy, while also being durable. My inspiration for the first look was land girls – ergo the vintage headscarf and muted colour scheme. I have just put The Land Girls by Angela Huth on my reading list after seeing this review by LandGirl1980. All those monochrome and sepia photos of the large groups just seem irrepressibly optimistic. I don't know if it's the smiles, the uniforms or the images of machinery and windswept fields. Whatever it is, essence of land girl definitely influenced my style choices yesterday.
However, I’m not sure if any self respecting land girl would complete her duties in second hand Faith wedges and a vintage belt that belonged to her grandma. Or a silk shirt from a charity shop for that matter. I would probably have been chased away with a pitchfork.




What I like about Goodone is that they embody the spirit of ‘make do and mend’ that was so popular during times of genuine need. I recently came across the most extraordinary advert in an old ‘Picturegoer’ magazine. During WWII, the British National Savings committee spent considerable time and effort trying to convince people to stop spending. Imagine that! How different, how alien that seems to us twenty first century buyers. Long gone are the thrifty years of war and post-war, where every scrap of fabric had a purpose. Nevertheless, companies such as Goodone are reviving the practice of ‘reclaiming’ and ‘reusing’ unwanted fabrics and off-cuts to create their clothes.


The wartime campaign mentioned above even had a purpose drawn ‘squander bug’ – a gremlin style creature covered in swastikas, which the government used as a propaganda tool. This naughty pest would be depicted in adverts, whispering in innocent ears “buy it now”. He was a menacing puck; persuading citizens to part with money that could have been put to good ‘war effort’ use.
One of my favourite advertisements stated simply, “To dress extravagantly in war time is not just bad form, it is unpatriotic”. I think characters such as Anna Dello Russo and Daphne Guinness would not have taken well to rationing and coupons. Neither would I. But I can tell you something – we would have all got by.

We don’t ‘need’ new clothes all the time. We don’t ‘deserve’ it. These are wishes and privileges, not concrete rights. There was so much debate about these ideas when Lucy Siegle’s book ‘To Die For’ was first released (you can read my review here), but I wish to echo her sentiments once more.
Siegle suggested buying less and spending more. This sounds logical – I would rather save up for something from a label with amazing credentials such as Goodone, Orsola De Castro or the Vivienne Westwood’s ethical fashion programme.
Unfortunately, every time I utter the word ‘ethical’ (or in this case type it) the images brought to mind are of saggy hemp sack skirts and nettle waistcoats. The word itself is almost too worthy – too alternative. How to combat this negative stereotype?
Goodone claims that “We aim not to stand apart from the mainstream fashion industry, rather to achieve positive change from within”. This is exactly the approach I applaud – creating style rather than forfeiting it. The brand has worked with large names such as Topshop and Asos, and is a part of London Fashion week.

The second part of my styling used a gorgeous Goodone cable knit belt (I want one!) and an equally delectable cable knit and faux fur muff. I moved from land girl to Russian dinner guest meets hiker. The long cream dress is second hand charity shopped Miss Selfridge, and the boots are Topshop. The socks peeping out are from Nanadecor – a Japanese company that specialise in beautiful, organic, ethically sourced cotton clothes. The faux fur hat was from a charity shop, and the owl necklace is vintage.

Goodone can be bought from several places including Yoox, Young British Designers and Beyond the Valley. See their website for more information.

54 comments:

london loves said...

Gosh I totally love this! Both looks are fantastic!
xxx


London Last Night

The Fancy Teacup said...

So lady-like and retro chic. The fur muff is by far my most favorite item of the three!

♥, Jamie
www.TheFancyTeacup.com

Stephanie Hoff Clayton said...

i really appreciate the concept of reusing, recycling, and "mend and make do". and i enjoy hunting for and finding second-hand items that i can add to my existing wardrobe. it's so satisfying on many levels.
you look gorgeous. :)
xo

Lucia said...

These photos are just stunning. As I said before they all look like magazine editorials. You have such unique style and taste and it's fabulous! Love the new layout of your blog too xx

designedbyann said...

Hello! I have to tell you that I found out your blog from Citizen Rosebud and I'm loving it very much!
I like your first photo very much and the place you chose to take the photo! I like fields with those big rolls of grass. I have a photo like that taken from my train ride from Lancaster to London when I was studying in the UK 5 years ago!
Also, you did a very good styling with the clothes! The knit belt is a very nice one, as well as the muff. Very ladylike!
Oh and I totally agree with re-using and re-purposing clothes. Nowadays we always buy new ones, while years ago women kept their clothes for ages! I really doubt if in the future my daughter (well, If I have one) will find anything vintage from my "collection"!!
Anna

sacramento said...

I am so for it, as you can imagen, as long as the prizes go with it, too.
Wonderful and brilliant as ever, my dear Rosalid.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Lala said...

You styled these beautifully, as usual. I especially love the combination of the muff and the hiker heels. I'm extremely jealous... :)

TheMinx said...

your blog is fantastic! I love how you write lots of text to accompany your beautiful photos :)

Closet Fashionista said...

Love love love that first set of photos!
It's so true, we really don't need or deserve new clothes all the timevand when we do buy them it should be on better quality, ethical stuff! I'm trying to change the way I buy clothes and so far I've pretty much got the no buying down, it's just the buying ethical I need to work on :)
http://www.closet-fashionista.com

Raez said...

wonderful photos and styling as usual! And I love the wheat field location, it reminds me of a Chloe ad!

Totally agree with you that people are buying too many new clothes these days. I especially hate when bloggers constantly buy new designer items like they made a grocery list and bought it all in one go...ridiculous. what kind of message is that sending to the "normal" people who idolize these bloggers? we're not all loaded! the other issue of recycling clothes and supporting sustainable clothing lines is another issue as well. yes there is the negative stereotype that ethical clothes are itchy and bland, but at the same time there are also brands that do great designs with recyclable textiles. the only problem with that is...they're also very expensive! I think for now I'll just have to stick to vintage and thrifting clothes. A great way for people to recycle, maintain sustainablity while still looking chic!

xx Raez

Sigrid said...

ROZ: you are the definition of legs for days! :) how tall are you?~! tell me on my blog when u get a chance!

Love Sigrid

from

http://dancingsinginganddreaming.blogspot.com

one of your biggest fans :)

the nyanzi report said...

great product and a great message. the pictures look great too.

iripple said...

Firstly, you seem very talented young women.

Secondly, as a bit of a environmental enthusiast, it gives me a bit of hope that there is at least one teenager out there promoting a lower level of consumption. My impression (although I might be wrong) is that most young shoppers spend their money in places like primark and by in excess. Your post shows that good quality clothes with good ethical standards can be stylish and worth the extra dosh.

Thanks, Michelle

Jess Tran said...

I am loving both outfits and I'm definitely digging the message that Goodone are sending.

Fashionistable said...

Both looks are fabulous. I keep going back to the second of the Russian shots though it has a beautiful filmic quality about it. The pieces in both stories are great. Off to check out Goodone now. Xxxx

Page said...

how gorgeous!! your 2 outfits are amazing!!
page

Jessica said...

Both outfits are great!!

I agree wearing a dress twice is normal not recycling and yes the word is 'recycled' in the wrong bin (so to speak :) And Goodone are encouraging the right way forward when it comes to recycling!

http://chicgeekblogger.blogspot.com/

Please take a minute to look at my trunkshow;

http://iouproject.com/tsh/jessica-karen/

San said...

Haha, "wearing the same dress twice – that’s called being normal." This is so mean and funny. *snicker*

I really love this first outfit on you. Totally awesome, very Katherine Hepburn indeed. (Wasn't she fabulous?!)

And a very interesting history lesson.

Have a great new week.

The Foolish Aesthete said...

I am a fan of the whole idea of "up-cycling" and purchasing good quality items to last, and pass down through generations. You look amazing in both outfits, and we have the opposite issues. You have extra long legs -- mine are the reverse! Love all the photos. I have always wanted those Russian fur muffs (dreaming of ice skating like a tsarina's daughter).

And yes, on your comment, that is one of our bookshelves. We are overflowing with bookshelves in every room, hallways, and storage areas. Can't wait for our big library to be built! xxxx

Rosa Goodchild said...

Oh My God! I adore that first outfit, it is utterly beautiful! The colours and setting of the shots are wonderful - it must of been a lovely day.

The muff and shoes in the second shots are also wonderful. Goodness, its all just getting better and better!

Rosa x

adrielleroyale said...

I love both of these looks! And there are so many words that have been abused to the point of not being recognized anymore.. Anyway, Superb photos, poses and outfits and I love, love, LOVE those booties! :)

Caitlin Rose said...

you look so beautiful in that orange jumpsuit! it's amazing. I watched a bbc miniseries called landgirls that I quite enjoyed recently!

On your comments about the wartime morals I completely agree. my grandmother still lives by them, and I greatly admire her for it. She's a seamstress as well, and I've never seen her actually go to a fabric store to buy new fabric, everything is make do. she adds water to the ketchup to make it last longer! it's amazing. I don't know if I'll ever be like that, but I think that your right, putting elements of those strong ethics into your wardrobe without having to sacrifice anything really, is so important. And you do it with such beauty!

Lydia said...

That's a jumpsuit?! It totally looks like trousers and a blouse. I love the cut of the hips, so gorgeous.

Andrea said...

Great stylings, you look stunning as always :)
I really enjoy your writing, all of your posts are always a pleasure to read. And photos are like from fairytales. I love that you dress like there is some special story behind, like Russian dinner guest meets hiker:) Keep on good work ;)

Virgit said...

Wow u are amazing your blog is awesome it looks that you came out from a movie awesomefolloeing u hope u follow back kisses

kat said...

Roz,
Continuing to enjoy your beautiful outfits and writing.
Delighted to open my new copy of Vogue for October and see your face. Being in Vogue is becoming quite a habit of yours, isn't it!
Congratulations on your win, your writing goes from strength to strength, which I hope is so for your recovering back also
Love kat x

SomeoneLikeYou said...

Oh, my beautiful Rosalind.... these photographs are absolutely stunning! The fields seem to stretch on for miles and the sky is the most brilliant blue...and of course you look so stunning! <3

Agora tô pronta said...

Hi, I love your blog, very good!
Give one last on my blog.
What do you think of following each other? kisses

vintage process said...

Great looks! I love it!!

Isi, Wake up & smell the azahar said...

Nice pics & great outfits. I'm agree with the message, we buy way too much these days.

Rebeccak said...

I am in London! And today I am such a wimp I have gone for a big coat! haha.

I love the colours in that first set - the fields seem to play a part in the outfit just as much as any item of clothing.

Will you be in London for fashion week? I am trying to bribe my fashion-friends into finding a pass for one of the shows (although I should really be in the corner of a library somewhere, not seeing fashion!)

SabinePsynopsis said...

Ha! Unless you are the Duchess... then wearing something twice is already called recycling (by the media, that is). Aaaanyway... Goodone did well to send you these amazing pieces. The dress looks absolutely stunning on you and the other things not only make great accessoires, they are giving me some knitting inspiration, too :)
xoxo

OrigamiGirl said...

The photos here look amazing! Especially the second shoot.
I don't know if anyone else is having problems but I can hardly read the writing though. With the images underneath that scroll under as I read it really hurts my eyes. However no one else mentioned it in the comments so maybe it isn't the same for everyone.

Also thanks for your comment on my blog. I go to the fringe every year and can't get enough of it. I feel so at home there. You should definately go next year!

OrigamiGirl said...

Ooops. Just refreshed the page and there is a white background this time so it is all fine. Sorry! Must have been some kind of glitch.

danniekate said...

oh roz! these are so lovely. you're right to be selective in the brands you work with, and these are fab :) xx

Kirstin Marie said...

Oh my gosh, you look stunning in both outfits. I adore your boots in the second outfit. Goodone sounds like such a wonderful company.

Bonnie said...

These pictures are just gorgeous. I love the scenery and the photography. The bale of hay is such a lovely addition!

http://www.glamkittenslitterbox.com/
Twitter: @GlamKitten88

polka dot said...

Well done, sweet pea. I love Goodone, as you know: I can't remember if I introduced you, or if it's coincidence - it seems that London, the UK, the WORLD, is really a small village when it comes to the good people. The 'make do and mend people.'

I love the shots - and the way you've styled this. I assumed the vintage cream dress was Goodone! I really want that belt. Oh, btw, my tribute post to your success:

KARMA http://streetstylelondon.blogspot.com/2011/09/karma.html

(K's bringing home the Vogue issue now - courtesy of the Glamour publisher himself!) xox

Marta said...

OMG! Girl! I adore you! You should me a model! Beautiful, tall and with class!

Xx

Vix said...

Beautifully styled and worn pieces, Roz. Wise words, too.
My Grandma always drummed it into us that we should buy the best we could afford, which to me means combing the chaity shops, ebay and jumble sales for top quality pieces rather than throwing money away onpoor quality, fast fashion.
Just walking around a car boot sale these days depresses me with the piles of last season's clothing (often still with tags) being got rid of because it's passed it's sell-by date.
I'm off to check out Goodone. Thanks for the heads up. x

Meg said...

So pretty! love these looks!

Love, Meg
http://dirt-cheapchic.blogspot.com

Miss Woody said...

perfect you !!

are you dressing up or dressing down said...

Well done on Vogue girl - loved your piece.

Helen, X
http://areyoudressingupordressingdown.blogspot.com

Style Eyes said...

Some beautiful photographs, I love Goodone, and definitely agree with the idea of creating style rather than forfeiting it.But I also agree that ethical fashion has a bit of an image problem

alexandratherese said...

Oh Rosalind you are so good! Fantastic idea to work with Goodone - not only have you styled them to utter perfection but you're raising awareness about brands that re extremely stylish, ethical, are upcycling and don't cost the earth. When researching the topic for my 'Guilt?' post I found that the divide in 'ethical' shopping is that there are the 'sack like' pieces that aren't very appealing although they have been made ethically and are reasonably prices, but then there's a huge gap where the next step up is brands such as People Tree who market 'ethically made' dresses, some of them costing £100 +. To me that is expensive - but I suppose it depends on what people's budgets are. We need more brands like Goodone who are creating affordable, enjoyable, guilt-free and recycled fashion that we can all immerse ourselves in.

Again, many, MANY congratulations for being featured in Vogue - I'm looking forward to relaxing with a hot chocolate and pouring over my copy when I get home on Friday evening. Have a wonderful first week at College - looking forward to hearing how it goes!

Alexandra xx

isa telaraña said...

I think the trousers are spectacular!!! ...but again you make them better.

London is passion said...

I LOVE both looks! You look so good!

Blue said...

I LOVE the Goodone philosophy! And I also agree with not needing to buy clothes all the time. But next time I do think that I have a relatively valid claim of needing something, I'll definitely see if Goodone has it...
Also congrats for the great opportunity you got for winning the Vogue contest, that sounds just beyond amazing!

Alex said...

absolutely adorable shooting. you pose like a model

would be lovely if you visit me too!
xxx

ReflectandFancy

Old Cow said...

I am squealing with a form of envy at the sight of your first shot! I happened to me in Norfolk this weekend and I saw endless amounts of such straw roly-poly thingies and I wanted to stop for photos but my company didn't see their beauty as I did!! You look amazing and the colours are ripe and gorgeous!

Gracie said...

oh wow, those first shots of you especially are just absolutely stunning!

TheKiwiBex said...

I love Goodone and I love the way you've styled these shots! Although a lot of ethical clothing is more expensive than your average high street garment, the point is we need to start spending more money on buying less clothing (whether it's recycled or not). In the long run it means having a wardrobe full of high quality clothing that you will love and wear for a long time. Also, not all ethical clothing is prohibitively expensive - in fact, Goodone themselves do a cheaper Basics range http://goodone.co.uk/#/shopBasics

LBVieVintage said...

love!

E. Von Bertalanffy said...

This post makes me think of the pictures you sometimes see of women during WW II painting their legs to fake nylon stockings. (For instance here: http://blog.stylesight.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/bpaintvv3.jpg and here: http://www.war44.com/misc/images/5/WWII_nylon_stockings.jpg)

I love the first outfit especially. You look straight out of an Agatha Christie novel! Poirot would approve, I'm sure.